Cutting and Stitching Lining Katori Dori Blouse (Heart Shape Back Neck).
For lining blouse you need two blouse pieces one blouse piece for out side and one more blouse piece for lining (inside lining cloth)
First take the following measures:
A = Length (Shoulder to Waist) + 2 in
B = Breadth (Chest Circumference + 6 in) divided by 4
C = (Shoulder +2 in) divide by 2
D = Front Neck 5 in or as required, back neck 6 in or as required
E = 3 to 3.5 in
F = E-1.25 in (Max 1.5 in)
G = Sleeve Length + 2 in
H = Sleeve Circumference + 2 in
Step 1:- First do the marking on the paper and do the cutting of it.
Step 2:- Now fold your cloth and keep it on the cloth mark and cut it. when you will cut the paper make one piece big (see the figure).This piece you have to use for cutting. Now join both the cloth pieces(outside cloth and inside cloth).
Step 3:- First take your back side piece and seeing the figure cut backside heart shape neck. Now first stitch back side fold your back side piece from centre . Centre to left and centre to right 3and 1/2 inch mark and stitch, 4inch bottom to up side (bottom side 1/2inch and up side should be 0) cross stitch. Now join both the back piece.Now keep this piece separate.
Step 4:- Take your sleeve and join both the pieces(outside side and inside)now fold corner side 1inch and keep it separate.
Step 5:- Now take your same piece and first join together. Now take your piece no.1 and do it cross stitch(2and 1/2 inch to 0).Then seeing the figure attach with piece no.2, now bottom side attach piece no.3, next attach button belt at the right side and button hole belt left. First keep this belt outside and stitch then turn belt inside and stitch again. Now join both the shoulder pieces and both the sides.
Step 6:- Now make a belt of which length should be according to your waist and breadth should be 2inch. Attach this belt with your blouse at waist side, first stitch outside and fold the cloth inside and stitch again.
Step 7:- Now do the marking inside your blouse according to your waist and chest measure, and stitch it.
Step 8:- Next join your sleeves.
Step 9:- Now take cross piece of length which is according to your neck +1inch and breadth is 3/4inch. Attach this piece with your blouse at neck side paipin or hemming (first you have to stitch outside, fold inside and stitch again).
Step 10:- Now attach button or hook and make a hole.
Step 11:- Now stitch dori with cross pieces and attach on your blouse at back side.
Your blouse is ready!
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For lining blouse you need two blouse pieces one blouse piece for out side and one more blouse piece for lining (inside lining cloth)
First take the following measures:
A = Length (Shoulder to Waist) + 2 in
B = Breadth (Chest Circumference + 6 in) divided by 4
C = (Shoulder +2 in) divide by 2
D = Front Neck 5 in or as required, back neck 6 in or as required
E = 3 to 3.5 in
F = E-1.25 in (Max 1.5 in)
G = Sleeve Length + 2 in
H = Sleeve Circumference + 2 in
Step 1:- First do the marking on the paper and do the cutting of it.
Step 2:- Now fold your cloth and keep it on the cloth mark and cut it. when you will cut the paper make one piece big (see the figure).This piece you have to use for cutting. Now join both the cloth pieces(outside cloth and inside cloth).
Step 3:- First take your back side piece and seeing the figure cut backside heart shape neck. Now first stitch back side fold your back side piece from centre . Centre to left and centre to right 3and 1/2 inch mark and stitch, 4inch bottom to up side (bottom side 1/2inch and up side should be 0) cross stitch. Now join both the back piece.Now keep this piece separate.
Step 4:- Take your sleeve and join both the pieces(outside side and inside)now fold corner side 1inch and keep it separate.
Step 5:- Now take your same piece and first join together. Now take your piece no.1 and do it cross stitch(2and 1/2 inch to 0).Then seeing the figure attach with piece no.2, now bottom side attach piece no.3, next attach button belt at the right side and button hole belt left. First keep this belt outside and stitch then turn belt inside and stitch again. Now join both the shoulder pieces and both the sides.
Step 6:- Now make a belt of which length should be according to your waist and breadth should be 2inch. Attach this belt with your blouse at waist side, first stitch outside and fold the cloth inside and stitch again.
Step 7:- Now do the marking inside your blouse according to your waist and chest measure, and stitch it.
Step 8:- Next join your sleeves.
Step 9:- Now take cross piece of length which is according to your neck +1inch and breadth is 3/4inch. Attach this piece with your blouse at neck side paipin or hemming (first you have to stitch outside, fold inside and stitch again).
Step 10:- Now attach button or hook and make a hole.
Step 11:- Now stitch dori with cross pieces and attach on your blouse at back side.
Your blouse is ready!
Keep your paper pieces cuttings on the cloth. Draw marking lines on cloth and carefully cut the cloth.
Author: Mrs. Bhawna Gupta is a professional tailor for ladies dresses (Indian Blouse, Chudidar, Salwar Suit, Maxi, Frock, Kids Skirts, Tops etc) over more than a decade. She had completed the Advanced Diploma in Tailoring from Madras Institute of Tailoring.
Disclaimer - This BLOG is published for learning purpose. Author has no liability for any damage or loss. This blog must not be used for commercial purposes or for publishing in other electronic media purposes.
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